The Ferret Store Official Blog - Ferret News & Info

If you try to find information about what kind of treats you can feed your ferrets, you are bound to come up with all sorts of conflicting information. Some people feed their ferrets all sorts of sugary treats, while others wouldn't ever touch them. So what is the ultimate truth about sugary ferret treats? Are they good or bad?

While it hasn't been definitively proven that a diet high in carbohydrates causes insulinoma, it is just common sense that a ferret's body cannot handle a lot of sugar. They are obligate carnivores, and they get their nutrition from animal fats and proteins. Constantly feeding a high sugar diet overworks the beta cells in the pancreas, which affects insulin production. Regardless of whether or not this causes insulinoma, it is unhealthy as well as unnecessary, given how many healthy ferret treats and foods are available.

So does this mean that sugary treats should never be given to ferrets? If your ferret is on a diet high in animal fats and proteins and low in carbohydrates, giving him a special sugary treat a few times a year or even once a month isn't going to kill him. Of course, by this we don't mean that you should dump an entire canister of Yogies in front of him and let him eat as many as he wants. But a couple every now and again aren't going to be fatal. Plus, if you always feed healthy, meat based treats, you may find that your ferret turns his nose up at sugary treats anyway!

Some sugary treats that can be given in very strict moderation are:

• Yogurt treats
• Peanut butter treats
• Nonacidic fruits such as melons, bananas, and papaya
• Low salt, low sugar cereals like Kix or Cheerios

If you do give your ferrets any of the above treats, it should only be a couple very small pieces.

There is one situation where sugary treats should never be given, and that is if your ferret has insulinoma. Ferrets with insulinoma absolutely must have a sugar free diet to prevent dangerous fluctuations in blood glucose levels. Never give your insulinomic ferret a sugary treat, no matter how cute he looks when he begs!

If you are at all concerned that giving your ferret a sugary treat may hurt him, don't do it! The point of this post is not to encourage you to feed sugary treats. There are many healthy treats available that are a much better alternative for our ferrets. But if you feed a couple sugary treats once in a while, you are not a bad ferret owner, and you are not going to kill your ferret. Just make sure that your ferret's kibble and treats that are given daily meet all of his nutritional requirements, and feed any sugar treats in only the strictest moderation.

To read more about choosing a healthy ferret diet, check out the following articles:
Making Healthy Choices
Don't Shortchange Your Ferret's Nutrition: The Importance of Quality Ferret Food
Ferret Treats: Compare Ingredients by Brand
Healthy Treats for Your Favorite Ferret

Posted by ferretstore at 10:35 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

New ferret owners are usually quite surprised and a little alarmed when their ferret starts jumping and bouncing wildly around in front of them. This behavior is often misinterpreted as a sign of aggression, but in reality it's your ferret's invitation to play!

The weasel war dance, or happy weasel war dance, is how a ferret asks you or another animal to play with her. Sometimes a ferret will even dance with an inanimate object that they run into or that startles them.

When a ferret war dances, she jumps back and forth with her mouth open and her back arched. She will turn her head back and forth as she bounces around, and she may also "dook" while she dances. A dook is a cross between a chatter and a chuckle. If your ferret is young or has minimal or no bite training, she may nip lightly at you while she dances.

Some ferrets will get so into their war dancing that they will flip themselves over or dance right off the edge of a chair or a couch. Most will hit the ground still dancing! It's a delightful display of joy and excitement.

So there you have it! Next time your ferret starts to jump around in front of you, accept her invitation - get down on the floor and play with her!

Posted by ferretstore at 03:14 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Do you ever wonder what ferret owners are talking about when they say things like "alpha ferret" or "bottlebrush?" Now you won't have to! Below are some of the common ferret terms that you may have heard.

Albino:
A ferret that is all white and has pink eyes because it lacks pigmentation.

Alpha Ferret:
The dominant ferret in the group.

Altered:
A spayed or neutered ferret.

Blown coat:
A ferret that blows her coat loses most or all of her guard hairs, leaving her coat with a light, patchy appearance.

Bonded ferrets:
Ferrets, usually cagemates, that have formed a very close bond with each other.

Bottlebrush tail:
When all the hair on the tail sticks straight out because the ferret is excited or upset.

Business:
A group of ferrets.

Descented:
A ferret whose anal scent glands have been removed.

Dook:
A noise that a ferret makes that sounds like a mix between a chuckle and a chatter.

Ferreting:
Hunting with ferrets.

Ferretproofing:
The process of making your ferret's play area safe for her.

Flat ferret:
When a ferret suddenly lays flat on the ground.

Free roam:
When ferrets have the entire house to play and/or live in.

Guard hairs:
The longer, stiffer hairs on the top of your ferret's coat.

Intact:
An unspayed or unneutered ferret.

Kibble:
The commercially prepared dry food that your ferret eats.

Kit:
A baby ferret.

Mustelid:
A member of the family Mustelidae - in this case, a ferret!

Natural diet:
Feeding of whole prey, meat, and bone in an attempt to more accurately simulate a ferret's natural dietary practices.

Obligate carnivore:
An animal, in this case a ferret, that must eat meat and other animal products to get the nutrition it needs.

Poof:
A slang term used to describe when a ferret that has not been descented releases its anal glands.

Rat tail:
When a ferret loses some or all of hair on her tail, and the skin is covered with small black or brownish red spots.

Sable:
The most common ferret coat color, characterized by brown guardhairs and a creamy undercoat.

War dance:
When a ferret bounces around, jumping and twisting in the air.

Posted by ferretstore at 12:30 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Last week we discussed ferret colors and how to tell what color your ferret is. This week we're going to get into the trickier subject of ferret patterns. "Color" refers to the color of the coat (guard hairs and undercoat), while "pattern" refers to how exactly that color is distributed or concentrated on your ferret. None of the ferret patterns discussed below are natural markings. They have all been developed through selective breeding by humans.

There are two groups of basic patterns that you may see. The color concentration patterns include roans, points/siamese, and solids. There is also a group of white markings that include mitts, blazes, and pandas.

Color Concentration Patterns

ROAN
Roan ferrets have 50% to 60% colored guard hairs and 40% to 50% white guard hairs. What their masks look like will depend on what color they are. You may see Black Roans (Silver), Black Sable Roans, Champagne Roans, Chocolate Roans, Cinnamon Roans, and Sable Roans.

POINT OR SIAMESE
These ferrets are easily identifiable by their dark tails and legs, or "points." Their bodies are significantly lighter. Their mask is usually a thin "V." You may see Black Points, Champagne Points, Chocolate Points, Cinnamon Points, and Sable Points.

SOLID
Solid ferrets appear to have a solid coat color because their undercoat doesn't show through. They should have a full or a T mask. You can see Black Solids, Black Sable Solids, Champagne Solids, Chocolate Solids, Cinnamon Solids, and Sable Solids.

White Marking Patterns

MITT
"Mitts" are white feet, and the word can refer to white tipped paws, completely white feet, or anything in between. Any color ferret can have mitts, and because of this, masks and other patterns the ferret may have differ widely. Mitts may also have white bibs, knee patches, and tail tips.

BLAZE
A ferret with a distinctive white stripe of fur down the middle of its head is known as a blaze. The blaze should run from the middle of the forehead down to the shoulders. Blazes often have rings of colors around their eyes rather than a full mask. Other markings they may have include white mitts, knee patches, and tail tips. The rest of their coat can be any color other than white.

PANDA
A "Panda" ferret is one that has a completely white head that extends down to the shoulders. Pandas may have colored smudges around their eyes, and colored guard hairs should form the shape of a saddle on their backs. Other white markings can include mitts, knee patches, and tail tips.

Some ferrets will have clearly defined patterns, while others don't seem to fit into any category. The above pattern descriptions are the accepted standards for showing ferrets, so your patterned ferret may not necessarily fit the criteria exactly.

For more information about determining your ferret's color and pattern, read Colors & Patterns in Ferrets: What Color is My Ferret?.

Posted by ferretstore at 10:53 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

If your ferret isn't one of the basic colors (sable or albino), it can be difficult to tell what color he is. Here is a quick guide to help you figure out what color your fuzzy friend is.

ALBINO
Albinos lack pigmentation. Their coats range from pure white to yellowish white (as a result of oils, not coloring), and their eyes are red or pink.

SABLE
Sables are the most common ferrets. They have dark guard hairs and a cream undercoat. Their eyes are brown or almost black. They have a dark mask around their eyes, and the rest of their face is white or cream.

BLACK SABLE
Black sables have guard hairs so dark they appear black. Their undercoat is white or cream, but it doesn't show through their guard hairs. Their eyes are dark brown or black, and they don't have a mask.

CHOCOLATE
Chocolates are a kind of sable, but unlike a normal sable, they have chocolate brown guard hairs. Their undercoats are white or slightly golden, and their eyes are brown or burgandy.

CHAMPAGNE
Champagnes are a variation on chocolates. They have tan or light chocolate brown guard hairs and a cream or white undercoat. Their eyes are a shade of burgandy.

CINNAMON
Cinnamons are rare. They have light brown guard hairs with a reddish tint, but the actual coat color can look like anything from reddish brown to almost blonde. Their eyes are light or dark burgandy.

DARK-EYED WHITE
Also known as Black-eyed whites, Dark-eyed Whites (or DEWs) have white fur that can range in color from true white to yellowish white. It may have some dark guard hairs sprinkled in. Their eyes can be burgandy, brown, or black.

SILVER
"Silver" covers a wide variation of coat colors. Guard hairs can be silver, dark grey, and white. Some silvers have an obvious pattern all over their bodies, and some will just have silver rings around their tails. Many silvers will eventually roan out to DEWs.

For more information about coat colors, read Colors & Patterns in Ferrets.

Posted by ferretstore at 02:58 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

You will need to clean your ferret's ears at least once every couple weeks to prevent wax buildup. Some ferrets will build up wax faster and need their ears cleaned more often, others will need it less.

Excessive ear wax has a strong odor, is a breeding ground for ear mites, and can lead to ear infections. Normal ear wax is red, brown, or gold colored. Black, crumbly ear wax is a sign of ear mites, and you will need to schedule a veterinary appointment.

To clean your ferret's ears, follow these steps:

1. Warm the ear cleaning solution slightly so it is more comfortable for your ferret. (You wouldn't want cold liquid in your ears, and neither does she!)
2. Scruff her to hold her head immobile.
3. Gently squirt a few drops into one ear.
4. Massage the base of the ear to work the cleaner down in and loosen wax.
5. Moisten a cotton swab with cleaner and gently wipe the outer ear, including all of the folds.
6. Use a clean cotton swab to clean out the base of the ear until all wax is gone.
7. Repeat with the other ear.
8. Follow it all up with a treat!

You may be concerned that you are going to hurt your ferret's ears, but as long as you are gentle, it will be fine. Ferrets have an L-shaped ear canal, and with the proper techniques, injury is unlikely.

The five to ten minutes you spend cleaning your ferret's ears will help to keep her healthy and free of ear mites.

Posted by ferretstore at 03:34 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Adrenal disease, or hyperadrenocorticism, is one of the most common ferret diseases, and it affects thousands of ferrets every year. It is most often seen in ferrets over three years of age, but younger and younger ferrets are being diagnosed every year.

Adrenal disease is very treatable, but the effectiveness of the treatment does depend on how quickly the disease is diagnosed. This is why it is very important for every ferret owner to know the signs of adrenal disease. Though hair loss is the symptom that most ferret owners associate with adrenal disease, it is not always seen, and there are a number of other signs of which you should be aware.

They are:

• Hair loss, either in a symmetrical pattern or patchy with no apparent pattern
• Thinning hair
• Loss of appetite
• Lethargy
• Papery thin or translucent looking skin, sometimes with sores from scratching
• Excessive scratching and itchiness
• Increase in musky body odor
• Excessive grooming of self or other ferrets, including ear sucking
• Sexual aggression and mating behavior in neutered males - with other ferrets, inanimate objects, etc.
• Swollen vulva in spayed females
• Difficulty urinating for males - this is a sign of an enlarged prostate, a condition usually associated with adrenal disease
• Weakness in back legs - usually seen in advanced or extreme cases
• Increased thirst, increased urination
• Weight loss due to a decrease in muscle mass, but with a pot bellied appearance

If you see any of the above signs, schedule a veterinary appointment as soon as possible. And remember - adrenal disease is very treatable, but it is your responsibility to recognize the signs and seek treatment!

To learn more about adrenal disease, read Adrenal Disease: Causes, Signs, Treatment & Prevention.

Posted by ferretstore at 02:52 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Many ferrets will have a great time playing outdoors in the snow. In fact, your ferret is probably more comfortable than you are in colder temperatures! However, before taking your ferret outside to enjoy a winter wonderland, there are some things you need to know.

How long your ferret can stay outside will depend on how old he is, how healthy he is, and the weather outside. Younger ferrets can stay out longer than older ferrets, and ferrets with health problems should only be outside for a few minutes at a time. The most time a healthy, young ferret should spend outdoors is between 30 and 60 minutes. If the weather is especially cold or raw, wait for another day or bring some snow inside to your ferret.

Most ferrets will want to come in before an hour is up. Signs that they are done outside include:

• Excessive shivering
• Pawing at or standing near the door
• Sitting there without playing or exploring
• Trying to climb your leg or standing up against leg looking at you

Of course, in all outdoor situations, use your best judgement and put safety first. Some ferrets will like the snow, and others will not. If you ferret shows any signs of fear or discomfort, take him inside immediately. Always use a ferret harness and lead to make sure that your ferret doesn't escape.

Posted by ferretstore at 02:08 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Prednisone is one of the medicines most frequently prescribed for ferrets. It is a synthetic corticosteroid, which is a hormone that is vital to the functions of many cells and organs. This multi-purpose function is why it is effective in treating a number of different ferret diseases and conditions.

Some diseases treated by prednisone include:

• Insulinoma
• Lymphoma
• Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD)
• Allergic reactions
• Addison's Disease
• Autoimmune hemolytic anemia

Though in most cases prednisone is not a cure, it can help to significantly extend your ferret's life by controlling symptoms, and it can make him more comfortable. There are a few side effects, the most common of which is weight gain, but when used properly, prednisone will improve your ferret's quality of life.

For more information about how prednisone works, what it is used to treat, and what the side effects may be, read Medication Overview: Prednisone Uses & Benefits.

Posted by ferretstore at 01:46 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Though it is important to establish a routine to care for your ferret when it comes to tasks like cleaning the cage and feeding, it is equally as important to introduce a random element into his playtimes and interactions with you. Ferrets are very intelligent animals, and they will quickly become bored with things that never change. This includes toys, their cage, their play area, and you.

So what are some of the things you can do to keep your ferret's life interesting and fun?

• Play and interact directly with your ferret at least two hours a day.
• Rotate ferret toys in and out of his play area and cage.
• Choose toys and activities that encourage his natural abilities - hunting, digging, and tunneling.
• Expose your ferret to new things, such as different sights and smells, regularly.
• Rearrange his cage on a regular basis.
• Use a variety of different bedding in his cage.

These are just a few of the things you can do to make sure that your ferret doesn't get bored. The more time you spend with your ferret, the more you will see what he responds to best, and you will be able to adjust your methods accordingly.

You may be wondering why this is so important, why you need to keep your ferret from getting bored. It is because a bored ferret can quickly become a depressed ferret, and depression in ferrets leads to lethargy, decreased appetite, and even health problems. Randomness is essential to not only your ferret's mental health, but to his physical health as well.

Ferrets are naturally curious, active, and intelligent animals, and it is part of your responsibility as a ferret owner to care for him accordingly. You will be rewarded with a happy and healthy ferret!

For more information about ferret enrichment, check out the following articles:

Fun Games for Ferret Playtime
Playtime for Ferrets: Exercise His Mind
Toy Selection Guide For Ferrets
Ferret Enrichment

Posted by ferretstore at 12:36 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Introducing small pets to ferrets is never a good idea, regardless of how you think your ferret will act. Ferrets are carnivores, and in the wild, they would feed on small animals. A small pet such as a hamster, gerbil, or guinea pig could stimulate their prey drive. Even if your ferret has never acted aggressively towards other animals a day in his life, it would only take a moment for him to injure or mortally wound a small pet. If this were to happen, it would not be his fault. It is simply instinct, and he cannot be blamed for that.

In addition to the chance for injury, it would probably also be very stressful for your small pet. The smell of a ferret would most likely scare her, as she would recognize the scent of a predator.

There are precautions you must take to ensure the safety and wellbeing of your small pet, whether she is a hamster, gerbil, guinea pig, rabbit, or another small pet.

• Be sure to have a safe area for your small pet's cage in a place your ferret cannot get to. If possible, keep their cages in two separate rooms.
• If your small pet needs time out of her cage, always secure your ferret in his cage first before letting her out to prevent an accidental encounter.
• If you aren't sure whether or not your ferret can get to your small pet, always keep him in his cage if you are going to be out of the house and cannot watch him.
• Find a cage with a lid and secure doors to keep your small pet in just in case your ferret escapes or finds a way to get near your small pet's cage.

Posted by ferretstore at 11:25 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

When considering the purchase of a ferret, many potential ferret owners only consider the immediate cost of the ferret. They don't stop to consider all the supplies that must be purchased and the long term care that's involved. Though ferrets only cost anywhere from $100 to $200 in the pet store, the costs associated with owning a ferret are substantial, and there are many financial responsibilities that accompany ferret ownership.

Supplies
Either before you bring your ferret home or the day you buy her, you will need to buy a cage, food, treats, litter, bedding, toys, and cage accessories such as water bottles, food bowls, and a litter pan. The initial cost of supplies can total upwards of $500.

You will need to plan to buy supplies on a monthly basis throughout the rest of the ferret's life. You can expect to spend up to $200 on food a year, $200 on litter, $70 to $80 on treats and toys, and more money on other supplies.

Veterinary Care
Within the first two weeks after you bring your ferret home, you will need to schedule a veterinary appointment to make sure the ferret is healthy and to have the second canine distemper vaccination administered. Veterinary costs vary widely, but you can expect to spend anywhere from $50 to $100 if there are no health issues. You will also need at least two more appointments within the next month to get the third canine distemper booster shot and the rabies vaccination.

You should also consider the medical costs that you will encounter as the ferret gets older. Ferrets are prone to a number of different cancers, and the treatment for these diseases can cost thousands of dollars in the long run. In addition to treatment for health problems, your ferret will also need yearly exams and more yearly vaccinations. Even when your ferret is healthy, veterinary care can cost you $250 to $500 a year.

As you can see, the answer to "how much do ferrets cost" is a lot more involved than just the price of the ferret in the pet store! We encourage all potential ferrets owners to do their research and determine whether or not a ferret is the right pet for them before purchasing a ferret.

Posted by ferretstore at 01:31 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Giving your ferret a treat can be a great way to bond or to reward good behavior. However, it's important to choose good, healthy treats. Feeding bad treats can lead to obesity, malnourishment, and the development of health conditions related to improper diet. But what makes a good ferret treat good?

Healthy treats should meet your ferret's nutritional requirements, so when you choose treats, keep the following guidelines in mind:

• Ferrets are obligate carnivores that derive their nutrition from animal protein sources, and they cannot even digest plant material.
• Ferrets need a diet that is low in carbohydrates, so avoid treats that are high in sugar.
• Every treat your ferret eats takes the place of kibble he might otherwise eat, so treats that do not meet his nutritional requirements are essentially filling your ferret up with foods of a poor nutritional value.

Good, healthy ferret treats are:

• Meat based
• High in animal fats and proteins
• Low in sugar or sugar free
• Low in fiber

Other good treats are those that meet the above criteria and are also all natural or made from human grade materials.

Some good ferret treats available include:

• Single Ingredient Treats for Ferrets
• Healthy Chicken Fillets for Ferrets
• Fuzzys' Foamy Fries
• Ferret N-Bone Chew Treats
• Totally Ferret Dooker Delights
• Totally Ferret Original Treats
• Marshall Bandits
• Meat and meat broth or gravy baby food (Beechnut, Heinz, or Gerber)
• Cooked meat with no sauces or spices

To compare ingredients and nutritional information for the treats listed above as well as other ferret treats, check out our ferret treat comparison chart.

Posted by ferretstore at 03:39 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Routine care is a very important part of ferret ownership. Your daily ferret routine should include four tasks:

1. Giving your ferret fresh food and water
2. Cleaning his litter box
3. Cleaning up any accidents or messes
4. Making sure your ferret gets at least four hours out of his cage each day

Daily ferret routines have two very important benefits.

1. Routine care allows you and your ferret to bond.
   Your ferret will recognize you as his caregiver, and he will respond to the care you give him.
2. Routine care keeps your ferret healthy.
   Clean cages lessen the chance of bacterial and parasitic infection. Food left out too long goes rancid, making your ferret sick and causing a decrease in food intake. Water that is not changed regularly can start to grow mold in the bowl, and your ferret will not drink as much water as he needs. A healthy environment plays a major part in your ferret's overall health and wellbeing.

Posted by ferretstore at 03:33 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

A ferret free zone, or FFZ, is an area where ferrets are illegal. Though ferrets are legal on a federal level in the United States, individual towns, cities, states, and counties can create their own laws about ferrets. Some reasons that are given for the illegal status of ferrets are:

• Ferrets are exotic, wild animals.
• Ferrets that escape will form feral colonies and destroy the natural environment of the area.
• Ferrets spread rabies.
• Ferrets are vicious biters that attack infants and children.

Though all of these reasons are invalid, ferrets are still illegal in a number of areas, including New York City, California, Washington D.C., Hawaii, and many cities around the Dallas/Ft. Worth area. If residents in these area are found to own ferrets, the outcome can range from being asked to rehome the ferret to the ferret being seized and euthanized. Following laws in your area isn't just the right thing to do, it is the safest thing to do for your ferret.

To find out the legal status of ferrets in your area, you can:

• Check a current copy of local county or city ordinances.
• Contact your local SPCA.
• Ask your veterinarian.
• Contact the local Department of Agriculture, the local Wildlife Department, or the local Fish and Game Department.

Posted by ferretstore at 02:02 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Switching to a new ferret food is generally done because of health reasons or because the food the ferret is eating isn't meeting her nutritional needs. But switching foods is not as simple as just putting the new food in the bowl. The change must be done gradually to avoid stomach problems, diarrhea, anorexia, or more serious issues.

When you switch your ferret's diet, it absolutely must be done slowly. Start by adding the new food to the old food at a ratio of 1 parts new to 9 parts old. The amount of new food should be increased as the amount of old food is decreased over a period of two to four weeks, depending on how picky your ferret is. Eventually you can phase out the old food completely.

During the switch you need to keep an eye on your ferret. It's totally normal to see some loose stool during the switch, but if your ferret has regular diarrhea, if he refuses to eat, or if he shows any other signs that there may be a health issue, schedule a veterinary appointment.

Some ferrets are pickier than others. If you are having problems getting your ferret to eat the new food, you can try the following tricks:

• Put the foods together in a plastic bag so the smells mingle
• Grind up the new food or both foods and mix them with water to form a paste or with baby food to make duck soup
• Drizzle FerreTone on the new food
• Offer the new food out of your hand like a treat

Always make the switch at your ferret's pace. With a very picky ferret, changing diets can take a few months or longer.

Posted by ferretstore at 04:10 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Ferrets will often speak to us with body language, but do you know what your ferret is trying to tell you?

Weasel War Dance
This is one of the ways your ferret tells you she wants to play. The Weasel War Dance, also known as the Happy Weasel War Dance, is when a ferret jumps back and forth in front of you with her back arched and her mouth open. She may dook while she does it. Ferrets dance at each other, at you, or at anything else they want to play with.

Bottle Brush Tail
This is when all the hairs on your ferret's tail sticking straight out, making it look like a bottle brush. Ferrets can get a bottle brush tail when they are excited or when they are upset, frightened, or otherwise freaked out. To tell the difference, look at what he's doing. If he's backing up or hissing while he bottle brushes, he's probably upset. If he's bottle brushing while he's playing or exploring, it's probably just excitement.

Speedbumping
This is also know as "flat ferret," and it is when a previously active ferret suddenly flattens on the ground. With many ferrets, it's just a downtime while they figure out what they can get into next! They may also do it when they're bored or tired.

Tail Wagging
This behavior can be hard to catch, and it's most obvious when a ferret is playing in a tube and you can hear their tail thumping off the sides. Ferrets wag their tails when they're very excited, usually during an exuberant playtime.

The more time you spend around your ferret, the more individual behaviors and quirks you'll see, and the better you'll be able to read your ferret!

Posted by ferretstore at 03:16 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Some ferrets never seem to make much noise while others are always making some kind of vocalization. There are a number of different ferret noises, and each can mean something different.

Dooking
This is the most common ferret noise, and it's a noise that ferrets make when they are happy or excited. It's often heard during playtime. It sounds like a cross between a chuckle or a chattering noise.

Hissing
Hissing can mean different things for different ferrets. In many cases, it's a warning noise, your ferret's way of saying "back off," or a sign of annoyance. Other ferrets will hiss regularly, and it's just their way of talking. To determine what your ferret is trying to say when she's hissing, watch her body language. A warning hiss is usually accompanied by pulling back or an arched back.

Squeaking & Screeching
These noises are often heard during very active playtimes. Ferrets will make them both as they are attacking or as they are being attacked. It may mean that your ferret is angry. Body language will tell you if you need to step in and separate the two ferrets.

Whining & Whimpering
These are not normal noises for a ferret to make. If your ferret is whining or whimpering, he is in some kind of pain. If you hear the noise more than once, schedule a veterinary appointment.

Screaming
If your ferret screams, she is extremely upset or distressed, and you need to locate her immediately to see what is going on.

Posted by ferretstore at 11:48 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

It is not uncommon for ferrets to be visually impaired, especially as they grow older. The good news is that it will upset you much more than it does them! Ferrets rely very little on their eyesight because their senses of smell and hearing are much better. However, there are a few things you can do to help your blind ferret get along in your household.

• Always alert her to your presence before touching her or picking her up so you don't startle her and elicit a bite. You can say her name or put your hand near her face so she can smell you.
• When you pick her up, hold her firmly against you so she feels safe and secure. A blind ferret is going to be nervous and upset if you let her dangle in mid air.
• Don't rearrange her play areas. She will map the area, and moving things around will confuse and frustrate her.
• Make sure to come up with enrichment activities that she will enjoy, such as scenting her toys and bedding with interesting smells and stroking her face and ears.
• When training her, focus on positive reinforcement methods.
• If you have to work on litter training, always put the litter box or Piddle Pads® in a space she chooses.
• Be sure to ferretproof any high areas especially well so she can't climb up and fall off

Though we view blind ferrets as being handicapped, you will soon see that they adjust quickly and don't let it slow them down at all! With a little effort on your part, your blind ferret will feel safe and secure with you and in your home.

Posted by ferretstore at 02:16 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

When you're looking at active, energetic kits in the pet store or bringing home a younger ferret from a shelter, it's important to keep in mind that in a few years, your ferret will be older and will probably need a much more intensive level of care. A ferret is considered a senior sitizen at four and elderly at six.

What are some of the things you may have to do for an older ferret?

• Do supplemental feedings throughout the day
• Administer multiple medications
• Be prepared for significantly increased veterinary expenditures

As your ferret ages, you will need to make changes to accomodate her changing lifestyle. Some of these adjustments may include:

• Rearrange the cage to eliminate any possible sources of injury
• Make sure the floors and ramps are well padded
• Provide more bedding that sits on the floor of the cage, such as sleep sacks, beds, and blankets
• Put puppy pads in the cage if your ferret suffers from incontinence

Even if your ferret has been completely healthy before, it is highly likely that she will develop one of the common ferret diseases. These include adrenal disease, insulinoma, cardiomyopathy, and lymphoma. Always keep an eye on your ferret's stool, activity levels, and food intake so you will notice change as soon as possible.

While all of this sounds rather intimidating, there are many upsides to being the parent of an elderly ferret. Older ferrets are very sweet and loving, and many will like to cuddle with you. The bond that you have with your old ferret will be much stronger than the bond you have with a younger ferret because older ferrets respond so much to the care and love you give them.

If you have just brought home a young ferret and are wondering if you did the right thing, don't worry! You have a long time to prepare yourself before your ferret becomes a senior citizen, and not all ferrets slow down significantly until they are six or seven years old. Some ferrets still act like they're one when they're six! All of the above information is important to know because you must be prepared for all possibilities when it comes to ferret ownership.

Posted by ferretstore at 01:50 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

We all know that ferrets should have minimal plant material because they are obligate carnivores that need a meat diet. But did you know that there are many common household plants that aren't just good for your ferret, they're actually toxic? Some plants that are poisonous to ferrets may only cause vomiting and diarrhea, but others can cause organ failure and death.

Because of this, it's very important to know what plants are in your house and whether or not they are safe for your ferret. If any of your plants are on this list, we recommend that you put them in a room the ferrets never go in or throw them away altogether.

If you think that your ferret may have ingested a poisonous plant, seek medical help immediately. If you don't know of a 24 hour veterinary clinic or you don't know if you have enough time to get to your veterinarian, call an poison control hotline for pets, such as the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center Hotline at (888) 426-4433.

Here is a list of common poisonous plants:

For more information, including a full listing of poisonous plants, read Poisonous Plants at www.ferretfacts.com.

Posted by ferretstore at 01:04 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

If you've talked about your ferret with non-ferret owners, it's likely that you've been confronted with some of the misconceptions and negative ideas that people have about ferrets. Below we'll discuss some of the myths and reasons that ferrets have gotten a bad reputation, and what information you can use to help people get their facts straight about ferrets!

Myth: Ferrets are dangerous, wild animals.
Fact: Ferrets have actually been domesticated for over 2,000 years and are incapable of surviving in the wild.

Myth: Ferrets spread rabies.
Truth:There have never been any recorded cases of ferrets spreading rabies, and there have been fewer than 20 documented cases of ferrets even contracting rabies from another animal. Ferrets are vaccinated against rabies just like cats and dogs are.

Myth: Ferrets are viscious biters.
Truth: Ferrets will nip as kits, but can easily be trained not to. Nipping while playing is an instinctual behavior and one they don't understand isn't appropriate when interacting with humans. It is the owner's responsibility to train and socialize his or her ferret.

Myth: Ferrets attack children and infants.
Truth: Ferrets are no more likely to attack a human than a dog or cat is. You should supervise any animal around young children and infants, both for the safety of the child and the safety of the animal.

Myth: Ferrets smell awful and will make your entire house stink.
Truth: Every animal has a slight odor to them, and ferrets are no different. They have a slight musky scent, but if they are cared for properly, the smell is fairly unnoticeable. A ferret will only smell as good as his environment does, so keeping the litterbox and cage clean will go a long way towards keeping your ferret smelling fresh and clean.

Posted by ferretstore at 02:21 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Many people have the misconception that ferrets are vicious and will attack children - this is not even remotely true! A ferret is no more likely to attack a child than a dog or cat would be. In fact, the ferret's safety is more of a concerns than the child's safety. Children often don't know how to interact with animals and could accidentally injure the ferret by holding it too tightly or dropping it.

The truth is that children can own ferrets as pets, but there are important aspects of ownership that you must consider before choosing a ferret as a pet for a child.

• Ferrets are high maintenance pets that require a lot of daily care.
• Ferrets need a good deal of training, and many kits will need bite training.
• Ferrets need at least two veterinary visits a year, though most will have to go more often, especially as they grow older.
• Ferrets can live anywhere from five to ten years, and they will need a permanent home for that entire time.

Ferrets do make great pets for children, but it's important to realize that no child can take care of a ferret by him or herself because of all the reasons listed above. Ferrets require a level of responsibility that children just aren't capable of meeting. While children can own ferrets, a parent will always need to be the primary caretaker responsible for daily care, training, and any medical issues that may arise.

Posted by ferretstore at 11:31 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

It's important that ferrets get at least four hours of playtime out of their cage each day, but it is equally as important to make sure that the rooms they play in are safe. There are many hazards throughout your house that could cause your ferrets harm or even kill them. Below is a list of some of the dangerous items you need to be aware of if your ferrets are to have safe, fun playtimes.

• Recliners
• Sofa beds
• Rocking chairs
• Bookcases and high tables
• Remote controls and other items with soft rubber parts
• Electrical wires
• Power cords
• Mattress box springs
• Appliances like stoves, refrigerators, washers, and dryers
• Cleaning products stored in cabinets low to the ground
• Garbage cans
• Open toilets
• Holes around pipes, in floorboards, or between cabinets
• Open windows
• Spaces under doors
• Air ducts and vents
• Doors that open to the outside
• Candles
• Baseboard heaters
• Radiators
• Fireplaces
• Poisonous houseplants

Before you let your ferrets out of their cage, look around the room they will be playing in to see if any of the above hazards are present. If you can't remove them from the room, they must be ferretproofed. For example, if you have recliners, disable the reclining mechanism or bind them so they can't open. Use cord covers on power cords that can't be put out of reach. Eliminate any access to high places by moving furniture.

Ferretproofing is an ongoing process, so make sure you check the playspace each and every time!

Posted by ferretstore at 02:42 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

During the fall and winter, ferrets should build up a thick, fluffy coat. In the spring, they will go through a shedding period so their summer coats are thinner. Significant hair loss, called alopecia, at any other time of year should always be a cause for concern and a reason for a veterinary appointment.

The most common cause of hair loss is adrenal disease. Adrenal disease is generally seen in ferrets over three years old, but can be seen in ferrets as young as a year old. Other symptoms that may accompany adrenal disease related hair loss are excessive itchiness, a swollen vulva in females, or aggressive mating behavior and trouble urinating in males.

If your veterinarian determines that your ferret doesn't have adrenal disease, other causes for hair loss include:

• Rat tail
• Overly dry skin
• Ringworm
• Fungal infection
• Scabies (sarcoptic mange)
• Ear mites
• Flea infestation
• Ticks
• Malnutrition
• Old age
• Allergies
• Hormonal imbalance in unspayed females
• Stress
• Improper light cycles

Posted by ferretstore at 12:25 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Hind leg weakness, or posterior paresis, is a common condition in ferrets. It can be the result of many different health issues. The most common is a hypoglycemic episode. Ferrets who suffer from insulinoma can have low blood sugar episodes, and they will display hind leg weakness and difficult walking because of it.

Other reasons for hind leg weakness include:

• Heart disease
• Anemia
• Central nervous system conditions
• Advanced adrenal disease
• Infections from viruses such as Aleutian Disease virus (ADV) and canine distemper

Signs that your ferret is suffering from hind leg weakness include:

• The inability to stand for long periods of time
• Standing without the normal arched back
• Dragging the rear part of the body while trying to walk
• Falling over while trying to walk
• Incontinence

In order to treat the hind leg weakness, your veterinarian must diagnose and treat the disease causing the problem.

For more information about hind leg weakness in ferrets, read Hind Leg Weakness (Posterior Paresis).

Posted by ferretstore at 03:23 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Ferrets will frequently have health issues, some of which are minor and some of which are serious conditions that require veterinary care. In some cases you will need to contact your veterinarian immediately. Other times you will be able to wait 24 hours to see what happens. But how do you know when to wait and when to take immediate action?

Contact your veterinarian immediately if your ferret:

• Has signs of heart or respiratory disease
• Has had trauma such as a broken bone, heavy bleeding, an eye injury, serious open wounds, mishandling and other accidents
• Has heat or cold related injuries including heat stroke or hypothermia
• Has signs of an intestinal blockage or other gastrointestinal issues
• Has signs of nervous system or muscular disease
• Has urinary problems including difficulty urinating or blood or pus in the urine

Call your veterinarian the same day if your ferret:

• Is not eating or drinking
• Has had vomiting or diarrhea multiple times
• Has a sudden change in behavior, such as extreme lethargy
• Is showing signs of pain, such as crying when being picked up
• Has a skin rash
• Is shaking his head excessively
• Is chewing or scratching at his body, especially to the point of bleeding or scabbing

Call your veterinarian within 24 hours if your ferret:

• Is eating less without any other signs of illness
• Has soft stool without any odd color or straining to defecate
• Has sudden weight loss or gain
• Has a minor injury that causes lameness for more than 24 hours
• Has moderate scratching (not compulsive or excessive)
• Has a discharge from the eye, ear or other body opening without any other signs of illness

This is only a basic listing of when to contact your veterinarian. You will need to use your judgment to determine what constitutes an emergency if any other health issues develop. Always err on the side of caution - if you aren't sure what to do, contact your veterinarian immediately.

For more information about when to contact your veterinarian, read Contact Your Veterinarian When Your Ferret Shows These Signs.

Posted by ferretstore at 02:42 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

The decision to become a ferret owner shouldn't be made lightly! Below are seven important ferret facts to help you make an informed decision about whether or not a ferret is the right pet for you.

Ferret Fact #1: A ferret’s average life span is 6 – 8 years.
This means that the minimum amount of time you should plan to care for your ferret is six year. Some ferrets will even live to be ten! If you aren't ready to provide a forever home for your ferret, now isn't the time to bring one home.

Ferret Fact #2: Ferrets can be very expensive pets.
Ferrets may be small, but the cost of caring for them is large. Ferret supplies and ferret veterinary care will add up over the years. We recommend putting money into a "ferret savings account" weekly or monthly. If you don't think you can afford to do that, then you should probably wait to get a ferret.

Ferret Fact #3: Ferrets are NOT rodents.
Ferrets are in the same family as weasels, otters, and mink. Unlike rodents, ferrets do not have teeth that continue to grow throughout their life and they have very different dietary needs. They cannot live as caged animals like hamsters or gerbils.

Ferret Fact #4: Ferrets are carnivores.
Ferrets are obligate carnivores, which means that their diet must be a meat based diet. They get their nutrition from animal proteins and fats. Ferret food should have no less than 35% protein and around 20% fat. Ferret treats should also be meat based and high in animal protein and fat.

Ferret Fact #5: Ferrets have a musky odor, but keeping their surroundings clean easily keeps that odor under control.
The majority of ferrets are descented (have their scent glands removed), but they still have a slight musky odor. If you clean their cage regularly - scoop litter daily, wash bedding weekly, and wipe down the cage weekly - their odor will be minimal, comparable to that of a cat or dog.

Ferret Fact #6: Ferretproofing is vital to your ferret’s safety when he's out of his cage.
Ferretproofing is the act of making your ferret's play area safe and ferret-friendly. Ferrets can get through very small spaces, so make sure that all escape routes are blocked. Keep all rubber items (remote controls, computer cables, electrical cords) up off the floor or covered. Restrict access to rooms like the kitchen where there are lots of dangerous appliances. Disable or remove reclining chairs from their play area. These are just a few of the ferretproofing measures you should take, and it is an ongoing process.

Ferret Fact #7: Ferrets are very social creatures.
Ferrets need companionship, either from you or other ferrets. They should have at least four hours out of their cage each day, at least two hours of which should be spent interacting with you. This is necessary for bonding and socialization purposes. A ferret that bites and isn't friendly is a ferret that wasn't properly socialized.

Posted by ferretstore at 09:22 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Ferretproofing is the act of making your home safe for your ferret and safe from your ferret! Ferrets are by nature very intelligent, inquisitive and persistant. If you don't make some adjustments, you will very quickly find out how quickly a ferret can get into things. Depending on what your ferret gets into, it can be very dangerous, so you must ferretproof any room your ferret plays in.

When you ferretproof, look at your home from the viewpoint of a ferret. That garbage can? Perfect for tipping over! Those books and movies on the bottom shelf? Great for throwing around and rearranging! Anything that is within your ferret's reach will be thoroughly sniffed, explored and very likely moved. We encourage you to get down on your knees and look at everything that is on your ferret's level. There is usually more accessible to them than you think!

Here are a few tips for ferretproofing:

• Recliners are very dangerous for ferrets, so remove them from the room or bind the reclining mechanism.
• Ferrets can easily fit behind or under most major appliances, which is dangerous for multiple reasons. It's safest to keep your ferrets out of the kitchen and the laundry room completely.
• Use magnetic child locks to keep drawers and cupboards shut.
• Block off any spaces 1" or wider that would allow your ferrets to escape into the walls, out of the room or out of the house.
• Never leave your ferrets alone in a room with an open window unless the window is opened from the top as they could easily scratch and bite through the screen.
• Ferrets love to chew on rubber or items with a rubbery texture, so remove any items like that from your ferret's reach. Cover wires with cord protectors.

These are just a few of the ways that you can ferretproof your home, but there will always be more. Ferretproofing is an ongoing process, and different ferrets will get into different things. Make sure to take a look around the play area each time you let your ferrets out to play.

For more information about ferretproofing, read Ferretproofing 101.

Posted by ferretstore at 01:38 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Every year there are devastating disasters that affect not only us, but the lives and wellbeing of our ferrets and other pets. In many areas, the major danger is hurricanes. Other regions deal with tornados or earthquakes. Regardless of what the disaster is, it's essential that you are prepared for it. Being prepared will allow you to care for your ferrets for an extended period of time, and it could save your ferrets' lives.

The most important part of disaster prepardness is to be ready. You never know when a disaster will occur, so there are a number of things that can do to be ready for it.

• Assemble an evacuation kit and a first aid kit for your ferrets
• Make sure you always have ferret carriers or transport cages handy and in good condition
• Have ID tags and harnesses & leads for all of your ferrets
• Keep your ferrets' veterinary records with your evaucation kit
• Assemble proof of ownership information - this includes adoption papers or proofs of purchase, pictures of you with your ferrets, and any other identifying information
• Have a disaster plan complete with your evacuation route
• Have at least three places that you can stay with your ferrets if your home is unhabitable
• Keep a list of emergency phone numbers
• Have emergency cash on hand
• Have alternate sources of water and food for both you and your ferrets

When it comes to preparing for a disaster, you need to make sure that both you and your ferret will be provided for and sheltered. In recent disasters, such as Hurricane Katrina, people were told to leave their pets behind and were assured that they would come back to get them. While you may actually be let back into the disaster area, and of course there is no guarantee that this will happen, your ferret very well may not be able to survive a couple days without you. Ferrets depend heavily on their owners for care, including food and fresh water. Additionally, temperatures over 85°F are dangerous, and if your house loses power during a summer disaster, your ferrets could die of heatstroke within only a few hours.

This is why it's important for you to have a few evacuation sites available. Call around to local hotels to see which one will allow ferrets. Call any friends or family members who live near you but outside the disaster area to ask if you can stay with them. Other places that may board your ferrets include boarding facilities, veterinary clinics, and ferret shelters. Remember that Red Cross shelters do not allow animals!

For more information, read Disaster Preparedness for your Ferret.

Posted by ferretstore at 02:52 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

While choosing the perfect cage for your ferret is a good step in the right direction, what you put in his cage is even more important. A ferret's cage is more than just a place to sleep, and with the right accessories, you can transform a plain cage into an entertaining play area and a safe burrow.

Some of the items you will want to put in your ferret's cage include:

• Food & water bowls
  Many ferrets like to rearrange their cages, so be sure to pick out bowls that attach to the side of the cage.
• Litter pan
  Ferrets prefer a litter pan that has a low entry and high side so they can get in and out easily. Make sure that your ferret can fit all four feet in the pan comfortably.
• Bedding
  Hammocks, sleep sacks, blankets - these are all things that will make your ferret's cage cozy and comfy. Be sure to provide a variety of different pieces of bedding. Your ferret will put them where he wants them!
• Toys
  Toys are probably the most important thing you can put in your ferret's cage. When a ferret lays around in his cage constantly, it means that he doesn't have fun things to occupy him while he's in there. Provide your ferret with a variety of fun toys, both in an out of the cage.

For more information about transforming your ferret's living space, read Turning Your Ferret's Cage Into a Home.

Posted by ferretstore at 02:37 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

In recent years, there has been an increase in the number of deaf ferrets. Deaf ferrets display different behaviors from other ferrets, and they frequently have a hard time integrating with other ferrets. But how can you tell if your ferret is deaf or if he is just ignoring you?

Don't rely on testing your ferret in the veterinarian's office. There are too many new things at the veterinarian's office to distract him and skew your results. Test him at home first, preferably in a room without any other ferrets or other animals to give him cues.

Some different things you can do to test your ferret for deafness include:

• Shake a can of pennies
• Squeak a squeaky toy
• Make your cell phone ring
• Turn on a vacuum cleaner

The vacuum cleaner test is most effective when done in a room full of other ferrets. The hearing ferrets scatter while the deaf ferret typically looks at you, wondering where the vibrations he's feeling are coming from. Make sure to do these tests when your ferret is sleeping or not looking at you. Repeat the tests at different volumes and at different distances from your ferret. You should test him a few days in a row to be sure.

For more information about deaf ferrets, including causes and training issues, read Deafness in Ferrets.

Posted by ferretstore at 09:25 AM | Permalink | Comments (4)

Before we go over bathing technique, it's important that you know that bathing is not the way to keep ferret odors to a minimum! It can be helpful if done no more than once a month to keep your ferret smelling sweet, but the main way you keep odors away is by keeping your ferret's environment clean. This means scooping litter boxes daily and cleaning them weekly or more often as needed. It also means wiping down the bars of your ferret's cage to remove deposited oils and washing bedding weekly.

The first thing you need to do is ready your grooming supplies - shampoo, drying towel, conditioner (if you need it). Next, test the water temperature to make sure it isn't too cold or too hot. Remember that ferrets have an average body temperature of between 101° and 103°, so what feels cool to you will feel cold to them. You want a water temperature that feels warm, but not quite hot on your skin.

You can bathe your ferret in the sink or the tub. Some ferrets like to have water pooled at the bottom, others don't. Make sure that your ferret's feet can touch the ground so he isn't dangling. Never let him go and turn away, as he could injure himself trying to get out. The number one goal during bathtime should be to make your ferret feel as safe and secure as possible.

When you actually bathe your ferret, massage the shampoo deep into his coat, being sure to pay special attention to his tail, hind end and abdomen. These are places where the build-up of oils and odors is more significant. Be careful not to get the shampoo in his eyes or ears, and rinse his coat thoroughly, making sure there is no shampoo left. Failing to rinse him properly can result in a leftover residue that can cause dryness and excessive scratching.

When you take your ferret out of the tub to dry him off, it's completely normal for him to look like he's going nuts! He will probably run around, rubbing himself against the carpet, the furniture, the towels, and anything else he thinks he can use to dry himself off.

So that's the basic ferret bathing process! To learn more, read Ferret Bath Time.

Posted by ferretstore at 02:57 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

Every ferret owner knows how much his or her ferret loves to explore new places! Taking your ferrets outdoors provides them with a wealth of new sights, sounds and smells that they haven't experienced before, and its a great form of ferret enrichment. Before you and your ferret venture out for a day trip, there are a few things you need to know to make sure the outing is both fun and safe.

• Make sure that the temperature is ferret friendly.
  Ferrets are most comfortable between 65° and 68°F. Anything over 75° can be dangerous, and temperatures over 90° can be deadly. If it's hot outside, wait until evening when it's cooler to take your ferrets outside>
• Always use a harness and lead.
  Ferrets can very easily dart away from you if they are not contained somehow. Loud noises can startle them, causing them to bolt. Additionally, other animals or birds of prey could come after them, so you need to keep your ferret close to you. If your ferrets aren't in a playpen, always use a harness and lead. The most effective, comfortable harness is an H-style harness. If you have multiple ferrets, you may find it easier to use a tandem coupler (pictured above).
• Make sure your ferret is protected against fleas, ticks and heartworm.
  Use a flea control product before taking your ferret outside, and check for fleas and ticks when you get home. Keep your ferret up-to-date on all vaccinations (canine distemper and rabies). If heartworm is a concern in your area, be sure to use a heartworm preventive regularly. A single heartworm could kill a ferret because their hearts are so small.
• Bring a carrier with you.
  You never know when you ferret will become frightened, tired or will just want some quiet time. Bring a carrier with you to provide him with a safe, secure, familiar area.
• Bring enough water, food and treats.
  Ferrets should always have access to food, so be sure to bring some with you. Treats can help to ease a jumpy ferret who hasn't been outside much. Because ferrets can get overheated so easily, water is especially important, so be sure to bring a couple bottles with you. Avoid ice cold water, as it can upset your ferret's gastrointestinal tract.

After you take your ferret on a couple outings, you will start to add your own items to the above list, but this list is a great place to start! Remember - ferret outings are fun, but safety should always be your top priority!

For more information about taking your ferrets with you, read Back to Nature: Let Your Ferret Discover the Outdoors Safely.

Posted by ferretstore at 02:42 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Now that summer is almost here and many areas of the country are already experiencing warm temperatures and heat waves, it's very important that all ferret owners know the risk that high temperatures pose to our ferrets!

Ferrets cannot pant to cool themselves, so they are very prone to heatstroke. They are most comfortable at temperatures of 65 to 68°F. Temperatures over 80°F are dangerous for them, and temperatures over 90°F are often fatal. Severe heatstroke can cause organ damage, and it will increase your ferret's risk of getting heatstroke again.

Make every effort to prevent heatstroke in your ferret! It is much easier and safer than treating it. Use the following tips to keep your ferret cool:

• Never leave your ferret alone in a car or any other warm confined space.
• Never place his cage on concrete or asphalt surfaces.
• Keep your ferret in one of the coolest rooms in your house.
• Use air conditioning whenever possible, but do not rely on it. If the power goes out and the air conditioner turns off, the room could quickly become intolerable.
• Use a fan to circulate air, but don't blow it directly at your ferret.
• Spritz your ferret with cool water.
• To cool your ferret's cage, freeze water in soda bottles, wrap the bottles in a towel or tube sock, and place them in the cage.

With these tips, you should be able to keep your ferret's environment at a temperature of 75°F or lower.

To learn more about heatstroke, including how to recognize and treat it, read Heatstroke (Hyperthermia): Treatment & Prevention.

Posted by ferretstore at 12:45 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)